Sans Fragrance

Cool story I wrote up earlier!

2010-12-17T23:57:00.000Z

Here's a cool story about my timid encounter with Ungaro II!

http://www.basenotes.net/threads/266730-I-finally-got-the-courage-to-wear-Ungaro-II-in-public!

From now, I will not be afraid to wear it in public!! Great scent.

Wishlist; Musc Ravageur

2010-12-09T07:58:00.000Z

Today I bring to you a fragrance that has been on my wishlist! It's reviewed by a certain Katie Puckrik. She knows her stuff so check it out;

Christmas Scents; My Favourite Winter Fragrances

2010-12-05T21:57:00.000Z

Hey guys, just a quick post on some of my favourite winter fragrances and why I like them. I for one feel that winter fragrances must meet certain criteria. I'll proceed to list these;

1. Power - winter fragrances must be very powerful. So powerful that they can easily withstand the effects of the cool weather on the skin which normally sends most fragrances fleeting. They must have a nuclear contaminant sort of stick-ability!

2. Sweet - not everyone will agree, but I like my winter fragrances sweet. Sweet fragrances have a certain way of piercing through the cold and reaching the furthest nostril. Why mustn't we share our wonderful scents?!

3. Thick - transparent watery fragrances need not apply. Even something transparent and powerful like Bvlgari Aqva doesn't fare well in the bitter winters of the Northen Hemisphere!

Now we have that out of the way, let's begin shall we?

1. Thierry Mugler A*Men - Ostracised by many, this one ticks all the boxes. It has the longevity of Methuselah, the sweetness of the rarest nectar and the power of Samson.. with Rapunzel's hair! I love it and the bonus is, it is not very common in England! A winter must have without a doubt.

2. Jean Paul Gaultier Gaultier 2 - Caramel popcorn with hints of musk. All this fragrant goodness in a powerful EDP unisex concoction. Application is the key here.A shot to the chest, one behind the neck and another on the wrist will have everyone snuggling up to you. On me, it creates a soft, almost ghostly halo of sillage and I notice people stepping a little bit closer to investigate further. I've had nothing but good experiences with G2... it's wonderful.

3. Boucheron Jaipur Homme EDP - Sometimes this can be a bit overwhelming. It's too sweet, almost powdery and has an almost buttery aroma which can be nauseating if one is overexposed to it. Jaipur is very strong in EDP concentration but with just two sprays, it's a rewarding choice. It becomes a soft vanillic spicy masculine scent that penetrates the air creating a pleasing cloud of scent around you. Stunning! BTW, this is becming harder to find and those who have it are charging nonsense prices for it. Get it while you still can!

4. Christian Dior's Dior Homme Intense - Quite possibly my favourite scent. In EDP form, Dior's masterpiece is simply this; heavenly. Vanilla, Iris, patchouli, ambrette seeds and hints of chocolate harmonise to create the most hypnotic (pun intended) accord. It's powerful too. Easily lasting 16 hours, it's so rare, also rewarding to wear. In the winter, its gourmand notes are comforting and almost create an illusion of warmth. This fragrance is striking and it's one I'll always keep in my wardrobe, regardless of the weather.

5. Givenchy Pi - Vanilla anyone? Pi is an odd one for me. It's actually quite weak in EDT concentration, or so I thought. I wore it to work today and while it didn't have powerful sillage, it stuck. I moderated my application to just two sprays and I smelt it very strongly for atleast 4 hours after I wore it. Pi as a scent is actually very beautiful. It's sweet, vanillic, thick and smells much better in its sillage than it does on the skin. I find Pi to be very addictive too. This is a stellar cold weather scent and one that is good enough to get people talking about just how nice your scent is. The EDP is rare but it smells just like the EDT and is only available in 30 ml form.

The honour roll; these bad guys didn't make it into the top 5 but are worth listing because they are still excellent!!

1. Jacques Bogart's Bogart Pour Homme; this is probably stronger than anything you own. It's number 3 on my strongest fragrances list, only giving up position to Joop! and A*men. Oh, it's so cheap you can probably buy 3 bottles of it for the cost of one bottle of A*Men! How's that for value?!

2. Bvlgari Black - Some complain about its strength. On me it's very powerful and stubborn to wash off. I have the bottle out on my dresser as its part of my daily rotation for the week and it has infected most of my room. How's that for power?

3. Paco Rabanne's 1 Million - Wonderful strong winter fragrance. A shame it's so popular!

4. Joop! Homme - Quite possibly the strongest scent ever made? This stuff just penetrates. But it's too common and everyone's worn it.

5. Jean Paul Gaultier's Fleur Du Male - BIG BIG BIG sillage on this one. It's very floral and shares a similar base with Le Male. Some say it smells of rotten oranges. Application is the key here, this stuff is strong!

6. Paco Rabanne's Black XS - wonderful fruity woody scent that manages to be very strong and gentle at the same time. It does have a certain persistence about it that can become irritating. Still admirable!

7. Jean Paul Gaultier's Le Male - Mint lavender, ginger, vanilla.. what's not to like? Well, the simple fact that this is one of the best selling fragrances in Europe and everyone has probably owned it or atleast knows what it smells like. Still a stunner, but I would avoid it if originality is what you're after.

8. Aigner Black - For the no nonsense executive, this smells like business. Only to be worn by men in dark suits being driven in cars with tinted windows, Aigner is a dark, moody concoction. Very powerful too. What you get is a very strong polished leather accord right before you even spray it. When you do spray it, a citrus vanilla accord dominates the first hour or so of its scent life before the citrus dies off giving way to a very dominant leather note which adds to the thickness of it all. Very long lasting, very functional but difficult to pull off if you don't fit the description. Very rare and unique though!

So there we have it, a list of excellent winter scents! These would do very well as christmas gifts to a loved one! Enjoy folks!

Fragrances I Have But May Never Wear

2010-12-02T21:37:00.001Z

  Today was an odd day. I was late to work thanks to the weather and was told that due to staff shortages, my shift was cut short! Rejoice! Had things been normal, I would still be at work right now. Thankfully I am not.

  A man walked in today wearing the unmistakable Kouros by YSL. This fragrance strikes fear at the hearts of many, faces scrunch up and noses recoil over its repugnant yet strangely alluring pungency. The kind of smell people despise but seemingly can't get enough of. From what I recall, It smelt OK on him; slightly sweet, slightly soapy and just as unpleasant.

   After this observation, I wasn't quite inspired to give Kouros a public outing so it still sits there in the back of my wardrobe awaiting its moment of glory (soon my darling, soon). Here is the weird thing though; as I sit here writing to you, I have liberally sprayed myself with it and I'm continually fascinated by it's smell. So strong, so vulgar, so harsh but strangely addictive. A comfort scent. I keep sniffing my wrist and I get clove, civet, patchouli, and a strong, soapy note reminiscent of urinal cakes. A cloud of fragrance is continually wafting toward my nostrils as Kouros begins to unleash its broad sillage. Riveting stuff! Enough of the digressing! Let's get back to the topic.

YSL's Kouros is definitely a man's fragrance and one I could never wear in public. The smell is too distinct and therefore polarizing. Besides, if you really think about it, the fragrance doesn't actually smell that good. It's simply strange and captivating but only if you are well into this hobby. I remember when I first tried it before I got into collecting fragrances. I hated it and many people will too. I know it's all about being confident and being comfortable in your own stink (pun intended) but we must be considerate. Kouros can be nauseating. Unfortunately.

Next up is Caron's Yatagan.Can you say bitter? Artemisia s.k.a (sometimes known as) wormwood (easy to find if you live in England, your local park or back yard probably has some growing) has a naturally sharp, bitter aroma and Yatagan gives it to you and then some! This stands out for me. As a side note, anyone serious about their fragrances should consider gardening so as to grow herbs and flowers. That will improve your note identification tenfold. Back to the topic! After the initial assault, the artemisia takes a slight step back and then a hint of pine kicks in. All very hairy stuff. Before you know it, patchouli and leather have come out to play before a dirty castoreum note delivers the final knock out blow. All very confrontational notes in a strong fragrance that easily lasts over 12 hours.

Would I wear it? No! it begins like dried peanuts. The dustiness (patchouli) and the dryness (pine) but that bitterness (wormwood). From then on it sort of goes downhill. But like Kouros, if I'm not planning on going anywhere, I drench myself in it and simply marvel at this daring statement. I also try and imagine exactly how the perfumer managed to convince a discerning panel of samplers that this concoction was complete and ready for mass production.

Finally we have Givenchy's Gentleman. Civet, patchouli, leather. Another monster! The only consolation is that Gentleman is a bruiser with a heart condition. It barely lasts more than 6 hours. I am lucky enough to own a vintage version which is supposedly stronger than the current one. It's a more linear composition that is dominated by patchouli. So it smells sort of earthy, slightly stuffy, dusty and of-course dirty. Strange ... but I like it. I do admit, I wore it in public once, but I wasn't encouraged enough to try doing it again!

Now I'm a pretty masculine guy (Don't get me wrong, I'm not bashing anybody. I'm big into energy and there is nothing wrong with having slightly more feminine energy than the average man. it's all good in the hood). I don't wear pink (pink is feminine colour so all you PC police can eat my hat), my voice is pretty deep, and if I could, I'd live in a forest by myself killing my own breakfast, lunch and dinner. I'm not so masculine as to be a Man's man. I find that excessive and pretentious but a lot of my behaviour is extremely 'blokey' and typically male. These three however are so hairy and masculine that I'd rather not wear them out in public. Maybe the fact that I'm 21 may play into this, but I can pull off Antaeus, Giorgio for Men and Quorum with relative ease! These are extremely masculine fragrances and for now I'll leave them well alone. If you can pull them off though, wear them with pride!!

Top 10 Fragrances I Am Interested In Right Now Pt.2

2010-10-16T19:49:00.000+01:00

A warm welcome back! Without further ado, I shall undertake the task of completing my list of the 10 fragrances that are firmly within my radar and should at the very least garner your consideration.

6. Joop! Nightflight - Nothing excites me more than a discontinued fragrance! Can you blame me? I was born in a capitalist society! Lack makes things more desirable! This will explain why I'm in lust with Joop!'s creation. Reviews describe of a vibrant, fresh pineapple reminiscent of Cool Water but packing more oomph, much more oomph! Hello? Count me in! If only I had access to the funds right now. But I will stay vigilant. I'll have it soon. For those interested, its available here.

7. Chanel Egoiste - I understand that I am beginning to sound like a Chanel fanatic. Chanel is like the Apple of the fragrance world and their arrogance is very apparent. Their scents are very difficult to find at a discount and as a matter of fact, their scents can be difficult to find period. Distribution is tightly controlled, which drives the prices of their fragrances up. Smart! Also, it makes one view their fragrances in a different light. I see Chanel as a house that exudes class and wearing Chanel completes the profile of the definitive urban gent. Comparing a Chanel to other designer fragrances simply does not equate. Their quality and longevity may be similar but you cannot find a Chanel everywhere and you cannot buy it for peanuts. Snobbery? Yes, however, that's how things are so shoot me if you must but my mind has been influenced. I'm in. So about that Egoiste. I hear it's a woody oriental that is warm, sweet, balanced and long-lasting. Just what I need this winter! For those who have the funds, it can be found here!

8. Dior Fahrenheit Absolute - I find the original Fahrenheit odd. One thing that I find with people immersed in an art or a hobby is how far they get disconnected from reality. Contemporary art (Tracey Emin's Bed) is at most times, not really art. However, you get art critics swooning over junk that really hasn't an ounce of effort or originality in it. While I cannot say that the original Fahrenheit is 'junk', because it really isn't, my present reality cannot fathom anybody wanting to smell like gasoline. I must note some bias in this as I really dislike the smell of gasoline. But it must be mentioned that a lot of people feel the same about other fragrances as in "Who wants to smell like this?" or "What on earth is this stuff?!". As a bold statement, I suppose this can absolutely work though for someone who simply wants to smell nice and complete their grooming regime, there are better scents out there. A lot of people dislike Fahrenheit Absolute because unlike the original, it's not as daring. This, I find is a good thing. I just want to smell great, for the most part! And I hear it has oud and incense! I'm sold!

9. Christian Dior Jules - Oh Jules, why do you evade me so? From the time I lost an Ebay bidding war for it, my search has been fruitless and most frustrating (winning bid for an unopened 100ml = £21. I was only willing to fork out £18.. what a fool!). A daring leather; rude, obnoxious, sweaty but terribly alluring. This is my next foray into the taboo world of animalic monster fragrances (yes, I'm a hypocrite. I've just bashed Fahrenheit for being weird, yet I want to smell like a sweat covered armpit)! Jules has also been discontinued and surprise, surprise, I'm fervently looking for a bottle. Longevity is apparently legendary, lasting well over 12 hours. Some say that a modernised version in a clear bottle can be found in France where it is still very much in production. I still want the original 80's version in the olive brown bottle! My search continues...

10. Frederic Malle's Musc Ravageur - This has caused pronounced ripples in the fragrance world. Opinions are conflicting. Some say its dirty, other's say it isn't. Some say it's mostly sweet, other's say it's mostly since and musk. What to believe? I've been caught up in the drama and find myself aching for a sample. One thing that is undeniable is it's quality. Though being an EdP costing north of £100, that is to be expected. A fragrance most say is truly unforgettable. I sincerely hope I'll have the funds to acquire this sooner rather than later. Obscenely attractive but is it worth the trouble to get a sample?

Top 10 Fragrances I Am Interested In Right Now Pt.1

2010-10-15T12:14:00.002+01:00

My apologies for a much extended hiatus. To those who doubt my loyalty to this addictive muse, fear not, for the bug has still got its teeth firmly stuck within my essence! Admittedly, a lot of sniffing has been going on, but the buying has reached a screeching halt. Financial challenges have been to blame, but I am still hopeful and buoyantly optimistic!

So why haven't I been delivering those informative reviews I pledged to give frequently? Well my beloved readers, I have been lazy and unmotivated. My willpower has worn thin and I have become increasingly frustrated with my stash. I have experienced what the photography world (another hobby I have) call 'gear-lust'. A phenomenon marked by the extreme desire for new equipment. A detrimental side-effect is the neglect of existing equipment.

But I digress... I am here to inform, not rant. So lets get to it shall we? The 10 fragrances that have stolen my attention and most likely, deserve yours!

1. Chanel Allure Homme Edition Blanche - Notwithstanding my warm feelings towards the House of Chanel, thanks to the ethereal ANTAEUS, Edition Blanche is a fantastic fragrance. Dreamy as a matter of fact. Its hesperidic (citrus) notes lend a sourness that gives the sweetness a burst of freshness. The resultant essence is creamy, warm and at times.. fizzy. Almost gourmand. Toward the end the slightly bitter vetiver note becomes more evident on my skin and stays there till the end. On my road-test, I could not much detect the pepper spices. Given how inept I am at detecting individual notes in very well blended fragrances like this one, I am not surprised. Longevity was around the 6 hour mark and sillage was moderate. I see this one being a hit with the ladies. And what about that beautiful packaging? That golden beige metallic bottle with the white cap? Just wonderful! This sits atop of my wish-list. Watch this space! If you're interested, you can buy it here!

2. Chanel Bleu De Chanel - When I first tested this, I likened it to a toned down but gently spiced Giorgio Beverley Hills Wings. It also has a penetrability in its sillage that I first found in Davidoff's Cool Water. A tendency to waft up the nose in a strong, streamlined fashion, as if the sillage was designed to find your nostrils only! It's not the sort of sillage that seeks to occupy every corner of a room like for instance, Joop! Homme. It's a gentle, more precise one. In Bleu De Chanel, I detect something very un-Chanel like. A new direction they have taken perhaps. I detect a certain soapiness about it, a certain cleanliness. Some may argue that AHS may have been clean but to my nose, the Black Pepper made it anything but! With that said, I found it much too intensely sweet. Sugary, cotton candy sweet. I figure I would tire of this but then I want to have a complete collection of Chanel in my wardrobe. So that doesn't much bother me! Longevity in this was around 8 hours and it still sits on my forearm, ever so lightly this morning. If you want to get it, it can be found here!

3. Montale Black Aoud - Exotic, unapologetic, rough around the edges, brash, downright brazen and simply LOUD, this rose-aoud monster is revered in the fragrance world as one of the MOST provocative of the modern day creations. Upon the first spray, you get a strong dark rose note, reminiscent of Czech & Speake's No. 88! It then gradually gives way to patchouli and aoud. I find this to have a certain medicinal quality to it. Must be the aoud. I'm no expert on notes, but as experts are touting this winter to be the coldest in a long while, the thick, heady sillage of Black Aoud should keep me well insulated! Did I mention that this lasts well over 36 hours on my skin and a couple of weeks on my jacket? Hypnotising stuff. I will not provide a link for this one. Montale is the only place you can order it safely, with peace of mind.

4. Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit De L'Homme Le Parfum - Ahh, a new EdP for men. Love it! This one has me excited. I'm not a fan of La Nuit's green chocolatey opening. I find it too SJP Covet (not a fan of this) for my tastes. However, I do understand that most EdP's tend be about a more prominent base and I am willing to give this one a chance. I would not at all mind losing the top notes and experiencing that ambery vanillic base! I am itching to try this and I'm sure I'll get my hands on it soon! Best look for it in your luxury department store i.e Debenhams or House of Fraser or for my American chums, Macy's or Niemann Marcus.

5. Terre D'Hermes Parfum - A full strength parfum for men at an affordable price-point? Why not?! I dislike Terre for one reason and one reason only. I cannot at all pronounce its name. It's such a frustrating thing for me and asking sales reps who themselves cannot pronounce it is frustrating! However, it's undeniably a superstar of modern day fragrance. It's so soothing and reminiscent of dried orange pot pourri. It has a mineral coolness about it as well and oddly at times, it smells like cannabis (no joke). I've wanted the parfum for a while now and I am determined to snag a bottle. I can't wait to test the longevity as I know the EdT lasts well over 16 hours on me so this should be similar if not better. This is a fragrance that very much excites me and I cannot wait to take a holiday to Egypt, in the sun baked, sandy desert, sitting atop a camel, riding towards the pyramids and emanating from my loose cotton shirt, the scent of Terre D'Hermes!

That's it for today folks, I'll be back very soon with the second part of this instalment for you!

Gloomy Nostalgia

2010-07-15T12:44:00.001+01:00

It's midsummer and it's 5.30am. Work starts at 7. The alarm has been on snooze for about 4 minutes and it'll go off again very soon. Time to get up. So you wake up begrudgingly and slowly creep out of bed. You begin your daily ritual and as you go through the motions, you take a moment to open the blinds and drink in the early morning sunshine... pause...!! For as far as your eye can see, a vast expanse of dark grey Nimbostratus cloud has replaced the blue brilliance that you normally call the sky. A rather persistent wind propels tiny droplets of drizzle to your double glazed window! You close down the blind faster than you opened it and your heart sinks. What do you wear? Today was a CK One day, you were supposed to go classic! You had planned this. How could the weather ruin your morning like this? For god's sake! Now you have to look into your vast collection of neatly stacked bottles and THINK of what you are going to wear. You sigh deeply and you lather a giant blob of toothpaste onto your electric toothbrush and you let the buzzing sound drown your mental traffic.

Ladies and gentlemen, welcome to my wonderful mornings. I live in England and let's just say, good weather doesn't hold up. For the most part, planning what you are going to wear before going to bed is pointless. The weather is unpredictable and ever changing. It is not rare to experience four seasons in one day! Who said smelling good was easy huh?

Unlike most people and despite my disparaging tone, I like gloomy days. At 20, the first 14 years of my life were experienced in a very different world. I lived in Zimbabwe, southern Africa. The weather there was nothing short of sublime.. if not a little dangerous. Highs of 38C and the occasional 40C were pretty normal. Dehydrated birds would simply fall out of the sky and the ground would burn our bare feet (shoes are too uncomfortable in the heat) as we walked back from school. I was also a fan of horror movies and yes, my imagination was vast.. and to this day.. still is. I would visualise cold, windy days and evil villains kidnapping everyone. Pandemonium and chaos would grip the city and the events would leave everyone dead, except me, my parents and my friends. What a sick, twisted little child I was. But that isn't what I'm getting at. A gloomy day would kick my imagination into gear. I would escape the harsh reality of the sun-baked earth and the long hot trek from my home to the school and vice versa. And you know what made it THAT much better? A spot of drizzle.

The tiny droplets driven by ferocious wind would hit my chubby cheeks and the warmth of my mammalian face would dry them up as soon as they landed... and the glorious cycle would repeat. Time; 5.30am. It would take another half an hour to get to school. I would probably be the first person on the school grounds, but then again my friends were vying for the same title and they would probably be on their way to school too. I would be completely balled up in 2 thick grey woollen jerseys and a pair of matching woollen gloves. It would still be pretty dark but the grey clouds were visible. The wind was strong and the drizzle was relentless. I'd walk to school with a smile. But before I left, I would nip into my parents bedroom, who were still fast asleep by the way, and spray the big can of BRUT deodorant that lay on the dressing table and burst out of the front door, with my pet puppy running after me, and I would make my way out of the giant green gate, leaving my pet squealing behind it.

So now, here I am. 10 years later, looking out of the window. The sky is grey and the wind is ferocious. The drizzle is light but persistent. Herein lies the problem. I don't go to school any more. I don't have the friends to compete with any more. I don't have a puppy any more. I don't live in the same place any more. But I do have BRUT and it's not the same scent any more. But for what it's worth, for nostalgia's sake. I'll spray it with abandon and let the memories flood through.

Thank you for reading.

Top 10 Summer Colognes/ Aftershaves

2010-05-26T15:08:00.002+01:00

10. Ted Baker SkinWear

This is the dark horse of summer fragrances. Light, transparent with longevity to boot, it's a mostly citrusy metallic concoction that has one of the most refreshing smelling sillages ever. This stuff also blooms in the heat keeping you smelling fresh all day! This is an easy winner. One of the very best.

9. Terre D'Hermes

Arid, dry, persistent and ever present. Hermes' masterpiece does a lot to keep you smelling divine. Not only does it have a mineral note which gives it a certain transparency and coolness about it, it has a lovely dried orange aroma combined with a dry earthy desert accord making it stellar in the heat. A wonderful and worthy addition to the summer wardrobe. Also as a first for male scents, a much stronger 'parfum' strength edition is available meaning it will last even longer than the 12 hours I get from the Eau de Toilette. The parfum (75ml/2.5 Oz) is around £60/$80 and the EdT (3.4Oz/100ml) is around £40/$60

8. Giorgio Armani's Acqua di Gio/ Halston's Unbound

The classical melony aquatics, this is the pinnacle of freshness. While Acqua di Gio (AdG) is sweeter and has a sour citrus accord, Unbound is rather more bitter with its tomato leaf although the dominant melon and aquatic accords make these two indistinguishable to the untrained nose. Both are worthy buys and owning one of them is adequate. Unbound has the edge of longevity but AdG's dry down is more pleasing. While AdG dies down after around 5 hours, Unbound goes well over 6 hours. Unbound can be found for around £10/$15 for a big 100ml bottle and the Armani will be around £30-£40 ($40-$70) for a large bottle.

7. Azzaro Chrome/ Chrome Legend

Chrome is a summer classic. With monstrous lasting power (over 10 hours) and a huge sillage/projection, this is a must have. Chrome Legend is a LOT sweeter and the sea accord is much more apparent and I find it almost irritating after a while. It is strangely louder than chrome but a tad less longer lasting.The original is more tolerable and citrusy and stays fresh through out the progression. The two Azzaros are very affordable. Value for money is guaranteed as you get some very good quality fragrances for your cash. Legend is around $30/£20 for 4.2Oz(125ml)!!! Chrome on the other has is the same for 100ml/3.4Oz.

6. CK One/ Burberry Weekend.

A classic, Ck One is a musky floral citrus and one of the best summer fragrances of all time. It's unisex aswell so you can share it with your significant other. Burberry weekend is along the same lines but decidedly more floral and much much stronger. Both of these gems are available at a steal. Longevity for the CK is around 4-5 hours while the Burberry pushes 8 hours. The Burberry is much rarer and is a better bet if you want to smell a bit more unique. A 100ml/3.4Oz CK One is around $35/£25 and a Burberry Weekend 100ml is around $35 but much cheaper in the UK at less than £20!!

5. Issey Miyake L'Eau D'Issey/ L'Eau Bleue D'Issey Eau Fraiche

While L'Eau D'Issey (original) is everybody's favorite aquatic and a true classic, L'Eau Bleue D'Issey Eau Fraiche (flanker) is much rarer and much more geared toward the summer. While the original Issey is one of the best selling fragrances of the decade and highly popular, the Eau Fraiche hasn't enjoyed that much success but it is still a formidable force.
Tenacity, freshness and high quality make L'eau D'Issey one of the best summer colognes money can buy and deservedly so. It lasts well over 12 hours and stays fresh through-out despite turning salty towards the end of it's scent life. This is still a very good buy but ubiquity makes it hard to be unique when you wear this.
Enter L'Eau Bleue D'Issey Eau Fraiche. This smells nothing like the original and is a flanker to L'eau Blueu D'Issey in the blue bottle and silver lid. It shares a lot with the original bleue but it's decidedly fresher and lighter. It has a stronger citrus accord with a very green heart and it has an enveloping factor that creates a cloud around the wearer. It also has refreshing mint in it!! It almost smells like a refreshing fruit juice. It lasts well over the mandatory 8 hour mark with excellent projection. A must buy if you want to smell unique out there.
Prices are around $50/£35 for the original 4.2Oz Issey Miyake and about the same for the Bleue Fraiche although some sites charge well over $100 as it's much harder to find.

4. Davidoff Coolwater / Creed Green Irish Tweed

Davidoff's classic, while albeit inspired by the Creed, is a worthy addition to the summer wardrobe. A fresh soapy scent, I am one of the few who does not think this is an aquatic. It's more of an aromatic fougere. Aquatic or not, this is one of the best selling scents ever and there is a reason. It smells damn good. Longevity is well over 6 hours and it projects very very well. It retails for around $35/£25 for the big 4.2Oz bottle. A definite must buy.
The Creed is to the Davidoff what an Italian sports car is to a track-day racer. Performance is round about par but there is an element of passion, prestige and quality missing from the track day racer. I mean if George Clooney supposedly wears this, it MUST be good right? This is what the Creed holds over the Davidoff, so if you want a more decadent but similar experience to the Davidoff, try the Creed but you must beware since this is one of the most counterfeited fragrances around. You may find your lovely bottle of cCreed to contain Cool water afterall.. not good! However, if you check the feedback on some Amazon retailers, you can get an authentic bottle from around $130/ £105. Bear in mind though that longevity of the Creed is erratic. Some report well over 20 hours but the general consensus is that it lasts around 6 hours. The Davidoff performed well on me and lasted well over 8 hours. I also used the Aftershave balm and it somewhat intensified the experience.

3. Guerlain's Vetiver

A melange of grassy bitter vetiver, citrusy bergamot and a smooth tobacco note, this is a classic. There's no hint of sweetness in this one. The vetiver accord's greeness has a refreshing effect which is well balanced by the smoky tobacco note. It's magical. Vetiver is a captivating scent which brings many compliments. It's as masculine as they get and you need confidence for this one. Longevity is nothing short of amazing. My first test on this was a shot to the wrist. It lasted about 44 hours on my wrist (between showers) and months on my leather watch strap. Legendary! Prices are also very affordable from around $30/£25 for a large 4.2Oz tester!!

2. Hugo Boss Bottled

Hugo struck gold with this and there's a very good reason why. It's AWESOME. A sweet, fruity, fresh, light fragrance, it has all the right qualities for a top summer fragrance. It has good longevity and even better projection. Expect this to last around 6-8 hours but project like crazy. This is a great versatile fragrance and works in the spring too. You can get this for a little less than $40/£30. It's a classic!

1. Prada Infusion D'Homme

For me, a summer fragrance should keep you smelling clean and fresh while giving you an invigorating feeling. It should have enough longevity to last the day and needs to project well enough to get you noticed. Prada's Infusion D'Homme ticks those boxes. This is strictly a white T-shirt fragrance. It's VERY clean and very light.
The Prada is based around the iris flower and the accord is dominant through out the scent life. The smell is bordering on 'fabric softener meets freshly ironed clothes'. It's the epitome of fresh. It has the same soapy base found is Prada Amber but the iris stays dominant, distinguishing the two. It's a hell of a fragrance! I have a 200ml/6.7Oz bottle. I love it THAT much. Longevity is well over 12 hours. It has a lot of steam. I will have considerable trouble finishing my bottle. But that's a problem I'm more than happy to live with.
It can be had for around $75/£45 for the 6.7Oz and $45/£27 for the 3.4Oz/100ml.

Polarising; Escada Magnetism a.k.a Eau De Cola (R.I.P)

2010-05-24T12:50:00.010+01:00

The very name of this scent takes me way back to the very beginnings of this hobby. I'd caught the bug and I was real sick. I was buying multiple bottles at a time and Magnetism was one of my very first purchases.

I still remember the experience so vividly as a lot of my senses were assaulted at once. It was my first batch purchase from fragrance-net. The pound was still strong and everything was cheap. My 50ml of Alfred Sung Homme cost me a measly £9, my 50ml of Oscar De La Renta Pour Lui was a measly £11 and the 100ml of Magnetism was only £18. It was the beginning of an extraordinary knack for finding bargains.

The delivery took an Ice Age. Fragrancenet are based in the US so delivery wasn't the quickest. I arrived home from college to discover a curious looking brown box with my name on it. I was elated and promptly picked up the package headed for the kitchen. I grabbed the biggest pair of scissors I could find and got to work. It was VERY well sealed. I impatiently sliced through the miles of tape to reveal Styrofoam peanuts! I dug through the package and there they were, in pristine condition. My three musketeers!

With trepidation, I opened up the boxes. Sung Homme smelled like an old masculine (read 'not sweet') to my untrained nose. I didn't really like it. I tossed it to the side. Oscar Pour Lui was even worse. What on earth was this stuff? Yuck... I tossed that away too. Now the big one. Magnetism. I opened the box and behold that bottle. I popped the cap and took a sniff.. nothing. It was not giving me any clues. I had to spray it. I closed my eyes and pressed the atomiser. A burst of juice dispersed into the air as it left the spritzer and jetted toward the last bare part of my forearm. Immediately, I could smell sweet sweet cola as I munched through some strawberry go-ahead yoghurt bars. The sensory assault was dizzying. The creamy, smooth texture of the yoghurt bars complemented the controlled sillage of cola and vanilla! I must say I am not an expert at distinguishing notes. So I never try to since I don't want to pretend I know more than I actually do.

I did the happy dance. I'd found a winner. But alas, my new found lover wasn't being very honest. Magnetism had huge commitment issues. It didn't last long at all. I'd spray it and within 2 hours, it would vanish, leaving me forlorn and wanting. I left Magnetism alone. Feelings of joy turned into feelings of sheer hatred and contempt. I began to resent it. So beautiful, yet it left me disappointed every single time.

I was determined not to give up on it. I went to basenotes and got investigating. What I found out was very interesting. Magnetism was mostly synthetic. I also learned that olfactory fatigue seemed to be a problem with largely synthetic creations. It all made sense now. It turned out that I, was the problem all along. I was the one who had to change. I had finally discovered the secret to getting Magnetism to commit to my skin. It was APPLICATION.

Magnetism doesn't jump out at you. It doesn't have a big initial burst so one is fooled into spraying WAY MORE than is actually required. This has aphrodisiacs in its ingredients. It's worn to draw people in, not to announce your arrival. A clubbing scent has to be worn relatively sparingly. Too much of Magnetism is too much for your nose to take so it simply blocks it out.

As a person who normally wears 6-7 sprays of just about anything... Magnetism requires half. One to the side of the neck, one to the chest and the final to the inner elbow or wrist an you're good for the next 12 hours easily. It has some astounding stamina, yet it stays so soft and subtle.. seemingly threatening to disappear, keeping your nose alert. But it just never leaves. A turn of the head, there it is. A lift of the arm, there it is again. Now you smell it, now you don't.

Magnetism pulls you in. You seek it where you sprayed it but its not there. Yet you catch frequent whiffs of it. Where is it? Who knows? It's the king of hide and seek.

A ghostly presence accompanies the Escada Magnetism. An eerie coincidence as it has been discontinued. The 100ml is almost IMPOSSIBLE to find to folks, grab your 50mls while you can. If you can find the 100, do it! BUY BUY BUY! It's dirt cheap too. You can grab a 50ml for around £15 and you get yourself a HELL of a fragrance.

As I previously mentioned, its pretty much cola all the way through. You have to like Coca Cola to like Magnetism. It's such a bold fragrance and smells like nothing you have ever encountered. It's beautiful, mysterious and captivating. It lasts very well and while fairly linear (vanilla and cola), it's thoroughly enjoyable.

I believe Escada have made a HUGE mistake in discontinuing this. It may not have sold as well but it has a strong, loyal fan base. It's strictly a clubbing scent. I am not for a minute saying you cannot wear it anywhere else. Just like a Ferrari 430 is strictly a sports car, some people use their Ferrari for their everyday commutes and that's fine. More power to them! Magnetism manages to deliver great value for money while making sure you smell better than pretty much anybody else out there. This is in my top 10 of ALL time scents.

Clearly, nearly 2 years after we first met, I'm still very much in love with it. So how does it perform on the frag-o-meter?

Longevity: 8/10 .. It's a marathon runner. Controlled sillage for well over 8 hours. Spray less!!!
Sillage/Projection: 6/10.. Subtle. it's heat activated. If you move or get yourself in a bit of a sweat, it booms! It draws people in!
Scent/Fragrance: 10/10.. Maybe it's the aphrodisiac properties. I really don't know. It has my hypnotised and I can't get enough of it. I can't wear it in the warm weather but a spray to the wrist keeps me satisfied. It's a thing of beauty. You need it.
Popularity: 2/10. It's been discontinued for a reason. It's not selling well. Good news for you and me! Almost no one has it. It's so unique and it's getting harder to find. Soon it will be on Ebay commanding well over £100 a bottle. Get yours now!

A score of 6.5 overall is average. Such is the case with masterpieces that don't quite capture everyone else's imagination. Don't be fooled. The novelty factor is too much to pass this one up. It's gorgeous! Grab your Magnetism for Men by Escada Eau de Toilette Spray 50ml here.

The Fragrant Pencil: Gucci Pour Homme

2010-05-11T11:23:00.009+01:00

First of all, I must say I haven't done this for a while. I am rusty so I apologise, however, there is still a lot of useful information about the fragrance and say they say, the show must go on!

I liken Gucci to the House of Prada when it comes to fragrances. Their masculine flagships (Gucci Pour Homme/Prada Amber) have their traits very much rooted in their later releases (Pour Homme II/Infusion D'Homme). Another similiarity is the relatively few offerings available for men compared to YSL or maybe Givenchy. It's an emphasis on quality rather than quantity that I've come to admire though adversely, it has left me wanting. However, it is generally accepted that quantity bears down on quality so I'll be happy to make do with the few offerings currently available for these houses.

I always knew of GPH's (Gucci Pour Homme) existence but the reviews never excited me. I was never compelled to try it or buy it. Almost every review mentioned of pencil shavings and spice. They depicted a dry and arid scent without a hint of sweetness and I love my sweet scents. Clearly it seemed, it was not for me.

Fast forward to the beginning of this month when I made a few changes to my lifestyle. My fragrance habit was spiralling out of control and I made a commitment to control my purchasing. I decided to limit myself to just one bottle a month! It had to be special. I had done aquatics..I had done sickly sweet gourmands and the heavy animalics made my room smell funny. I needed something different. I popped into the local TK Maxx to find some bargain clothes and lo and behold.. a 1.7Oz of GPH going for a very reasonable £14. I did not hesitate to take the plunge!

I arrived home very excited about my purchase. I was also expecting to be let down because the reviews didn't depict a scent I'd go crazy over. Upon first blast I was instantly hit in the face by a very familiar smell. Peppery pencil shavings! The reviews were on point! I shrugged indifferently and took another deeper whiff. I got a hint of tea. Huh?! Interesting.. Another whiff.. This time I caught wind of a spice.. ginger! It gave the woods a more incense like quality much more reminiscent of YSL M7. And I adore M7! In fact to the untrained nose, these could very much be kissing cousins. The pyramid shows the presence of ginger but not cedar. It's too obvious though. The scent pyramid is as follows;

Top Notes

White Pepper, Ginger, Pink Bay.

Middle Notes

Papyrus Wood, Orris Rhizome.

Base Notes

Amber, Leather, Vetiver, Olibanum.

This is a very well blended scent. It shifts and shows many sides while keeping its predominantly woody theme. It's a very formal cold weather scent although it could work in warmer climes. I'm still trying to get used to the idea of smelling like a pencil. I see it as more of an artistic statement rather than a functional fragrance. It's got a shock factor upon the first blast but when it settles down.. it's simply a persistent woody oriental.

Longevity: 8/10 .. persistent!!
Sillage/Projection: 8/10.. it's just right! It's not in your face but it has a presence that you will detect without having to sniff your wrist for hours.
Scent/Fragrance: 9/10.. this smells GOOD. Give the slightly shocking peppery top notes time and the ginger and tea comes through! My biceps have grown from me persistently sniffing my wrist! It's an addictive smell. Albeit an artistic one. It's not the easiest to pull off.
Popularity: 4/10 .. Although it's one of the most reviewed scents on basenotes, you won't be smelling this everywhere. It's actually not very easy to come across.

All in all Gucci scores a very strong 7.25 on the frag-o-meter. I see this as a fashion runway scent. It's conceptual. Just as you may LOVE the clothes at a fashion show, you may not necessarily wear them out on the streets as you run the risk of being over the top. However, when you tone these clothes down, they become trendy and ready for the real world. Gucci is very much the same. You have to go very easy on the trigger for it to work it's magic.

It's worth buying BUT please try it a few times. It shifts so many times and also, some people have reported longevity issues. I have dark skin so longevity is rarely an issue. In fact this lasted a whole day and then some but it was very light. This is not s safe blind buy although I have progressively developed an addiction for it. If you feel the need to buy it, hop on over here Gucci Pour Homme Eau De Toilette Spray 50 ml where it's going for a reasonable price for the 50ml. 50 ml is PLENTY!

The Golden Question : How Many Sprays?

2009-07-22T22:51:00.003+01:00

Almost everyone who invests in a fragrance itches to know how many sprays are ideal. To be honest, there is no right or wrong answer. However, in the myriad of confusion, there are better answers than others. Let's begin with a personal anecdote.
Today I was once again confused about what fragrance to wear to work. After much contemplation, I reached out for Paul Smith London. This is a powerful puncher with Ice Age longevity and serious projection. Stupidly, I figured that since the scent is rather soft in its texture, it would be okay if I sprayed to my heart's content. Stupid, very stupid indeed. I sprayed about 12 times (if not more), on my skin, on my t-shirt, everywhere. It was great for the first few hours because London does not lose much strength from the initial blast. It dies down like radioactive material with a perennial half life, taking a LOT of time before it depletes to mere molecules. Even these are quite pungent! Needless to say after a few hours, it began to irritate me and the damned stuff would not go away. I had very slight bouts of nausea or that 'fed-up' feeling which some call the 'cloying' feeling, which though tolerable, is still rather unpleasant. I hated it. I wish I had put on something less powerful. Something weak like deodorant or something! Just not London.
So I learnt my lesson the hard way. I also remembered my testing of Emporio Armani Diamonds for men. I sprayed this once on my hand and could perceive it for hours on end. This was also the case with Paco Rabanne's 1 Million, and almost every other fragrance I have tested. therefore, if I can spray only once and perceive the scent for hours on end, why do I douse myself in litres of scent and complain about it's longevity? This must be olfactory fatigue. So i decided to put my new found knowledge to the test and sprayed some Hugo Boss bottled/ No. 6 on me before going out. I sprayed only thrice. Two shots to the chest and one to my right inner elbow. I must say the results are similar to my other tests. This is THE way to wear a fragrance. Do not spray too much. Four shots at the very most is enough for powerful monsters like Aramis or Basala and maybe 6-8 for weaker-mid strength frags like Halston Unbound or Mugler Cologne. You will be able to enjoy it more and so will everyone else around you!

Another way I find particularly effective is the double application. This way you apply the fragrance just after a shower. You can spray it into unscented lotion or just spray it in your hand and dab it all over your self and then you let it seep in. Then you spray as you normally would before going out (3-4 sprays). A greater surface area of your skin is scented and you will create a little cloud around you! This is a good method which I sometimes use but I dislike the tedium.

PS: these are general guidelines and ultimately what matters is whatever works for you.

Melange Of Spice: Sheseido Basala / Basara

2009-07-06T07:39:00.009+01:00

When I first got into fragrances, I cannot tell you how much I despised the 'big masculines'. Anything that was not sweet or fresh would immediately be sectioned to the 'do not try' section. I remember recoiling in utter disgust when I took a whiff of Aramis. The exact same was for Paco Rabanne Pour Homme. 'Yuck!' I thought! Fortunately, my nose grew wiser. It practiced day and night (mostly day), taking on the most challenging aromas. It conquered Wild Deer Musks with hydrogen bomb potency and fecal notes enough to unsettle a house fly in a public toilet! Yes my fellow sniffer, my nose was ready. Enter Basara / Basala.

Ladies and gentlemen, Basara / Basala is the stuff of legends. A fellow basenoter claimed that the scent was accidentally sprayed on a cd booklet and the smell lasted for 2 YEARS! It's notoriously hard to find and if you do manage to locate it, you will be charged an arm and a leg for it. It's the La Chupa Cabra of the fragrance world. Dark, elusive, dangerous and downright scary all at the same time! So you are probably wondering. How on earth does a 19 year old kid in the south of England get his hands on one? Hmm.. you see, that would be telling (bought it blind... *gulp)! I'll just describe this stuff :D!

To my nose, this is extremely peppery. The opening is a fusion of lavender and pepper. The pyramid lists citrus at the top too but I don't really get that. I also find it to be rather linear on my skin. It's difficult to pick out any notes but I know that a fair bit of woods lurk in there. The stuff is LOUD. It's an opera singer with a mega phone in a cathedral! There's not a hint of sweetness although I do see why someone would describe it so. It's just so rich and intense that it creates that illusion.

To be honest, describing this stuff is futile. Many have tried ... all have failed. It's just too damn chaotic. Theres so much going on and it's just so difficult to pick out any individual notes. You'd have to meditate on it for an eternity and frankly I just want to enjoy the scent. It evokes fire and a lot of redness. This might actually be influenced by the packaging but in this case I also feel it's appropriate.

Some say that deep inside the earth in a place called Hell, a bottle of Basala can be found. Some also say that sniffing this juice can singe all your nasal hair. I cannot verify these claims as I have never been to hell nor do I possess enough nasal hair to test this on but after smelling this juice, anything is believable. How could a perfumer create something so obtuse, so aggressive, so compelling and so far removed from the concept of a fragrance and convince the people upstairs to produce it? I don't know, I really don't. It's just so wrong and so weird that it's beautiful. It's so out there, you could actually destribute vials and start a cult. This is the stuff of legends. Everytime I sniff it I begin to wonder how this made it into a bottle and then into a shelf in a store. Basala isn't just a good fragrance.. it's astonishing.

Top Notes
Citrus, Lavender.
Middle Notes
Precious Spices, Dry Warmth .
Base Notes
Sandalwood, Vetiver.

Here is the pyramid courtesy of www.basenotes.com. I must state that a pyramid is just a marketing ploy that may or may not resemble what a scent actually smells like. As you can see, this one is rather vague in the heart notes. Maybe they don't know what they put in it and had to discontinue it when the first batch of juice ran out and they couldn't replicate the formula! I can imagine gunpowder and other explosives being chucked into the formula...Yikes!

Longevity - How long have you got? ... 10/10

Sillage/Projection - I left the bottle on my table without the cap on when I went to town one fine winter day. When I came back my entire room smelt of Basala. 10/10

Scent/Fragrance - 10/10 .. nothing like it

Popularity - 0/10.. unfortunately it's been discontinued and it's a little hard to find

I will do something I have never done here. I will DEFY the frag-o-meter and rate it 10. You need this. If you aren't going to wear it or if you simply can't pull it off then have it for artistic purposes. It has a place in every wardrobe. What's sad though is that something like this will never be done again. We are now in an age where fresh pleasant agreeable scents rule and no one wants their senses challenged. This is like the late great Michael Jackson in the sense that you simply know there can NEVER be another. You will have many greats but not on this EPIC scale. R.I.P Basala.

Total Eclipse Of The Heart: Prada Infusion D'Homme

2009-02-16T06:57:00.006Z

As I sit, mellowing to Pachelbel's Canon, I reflect on how prestigious that Prada label is. It's both ubiquitous and elusive. You recognise the name but the truth is they only have two male fragrances out. This is a house that prides itself on quality. The two male releases reflect that strongly.
My love affair with Prada Infusion D'Homme began last year around August I believe. Maybe it was later but my memory fails me at times. I was in Debenhams Guildford spraying away and I saw Prada Amber. It was interesting stuff, but only because there was a limited edition atomiser with that ball contraption. The juice was also purple coloured, a bit like Sung Homme. I decided to give it a go and boy it was lovely. It smelt like clean soap. Expensive soap at that! I then moved on and tried the other fragrance. It was in a minimalist bottle and the juice was clear. It could be mistaken for an expensive water bottle. Me and Prada Infusion had finally met!
The first spray was that of something sweet. This wasn't a sickly sweetness, but sweetness all the same. I liked it, but I wasn't blown away. What did get my attention however, was this stuff's amazing persistence. It kept wafting up and I couldn't help but think I knew something that smelt almost exactly like it. It kept eluding me repeatedly until I found myself on the Christian Dior Boutique. It didn't take long to click; Dior Homme! It was the iris, which on my skin was the most prominent note in this fragrance. I sprayed Dior Homme on my other arm and after 5 minutes I couldn't tell a single difference. I made my girlfriend sniff it because I figured the nasal fatigue was clouding my judgement and although she found them strikingly similar, she could tell the difference between them. But you see, I LOVED Dior Homme so it was only natural that I also love Prada. However I didn't get the Prada at that time.
I also tested the female Infusion D'Iris and while they were very very similar, I found this too stuffy and thick. Reviews praised it for superior longevity but I didn't care. I found infusion D'Homme to be perfect. It reminded me of a clean white shirt flickering on a clothesline in the heavy wind/ However, I think if I'd tried the Infusion D'Iris first, I'd have found the Infusion D'Homme too thin and transparent. But I'm glad I didnt.
Half a year down the line, I took the plunge and bought a giant 200ml bottle of Infusion D'Homme. I knew from the time I tested that this had all the potential to be my staple fragrance. You see it's very strong but not overly powerful. Powerful fragrances while desirable only shine in cooler conditions. They can overwhelm you in the heat. Infusion D'Homme is not a heavy fragrance. By this I mean the actually scent you perceive isn't thick or stuffy but rather light and almost airy. The juice itself is pretty strong as in it's very persistent, lasts long and it projects incredibly. You could wear this all year round and another factor that I love and hate is that it doesn't wear like a fragrance. Infact it wears like fabric conditioner. I've realised this because when I smell my clothes a day or two after wearing it, they smell like they've just come out of the wash! Now i'm not encouraging you to stop washing your clothes and just liberally spray Infusion D'Homme all over them but if you are looking for a fragrance that doesn't readily give itself away as a fragrance, this is the staple for you!
I like Prada Infusion D'Homme and it's earned itself a permanent spot in my wardrobe. It's youthful, clean and pure. Sometimes I think theres a slight animalic presence in the base. But maybe I'm mistaken as the scent pyramid is as follows;

Top Notes
Mandarin Orange, Neroli, Clean Notes.
Middle Notes
Iris, Galbanum, Cedar, Vetiver .
Base Notes
Benzoin, Frankincense, Powdery Notes.

courtesy of basenotes.com

It is important to know that scent pyramids aren't entirely representative of how a fragrance should smell. There is usually a lot of marketing behind them and they are devised to work in the distributor's favor. There are a lot of notes that aren't displayed and if one wants a rough idea of how a scent might smell, they need to get a small sample. The Prada scent pyramid is not a bad representation of the fragrance because to my nose, the orange, neroli and iris are most prominent. My nose doesn't have the complexity to detect the other notes. I'm pretty certain that there is an animalic twist to it though. It's very slight but I can detect it!
This is very easily one of the most wonderful releases of last year. Among the myriad of watered down ozonic scents, the Prada may be light but it's persistent. It projects well and stays with you. It's easily my favourite scent at the moment. It's modern, fresh, crisp and clean. This is a must have for the trendy so and so. It's available for around £30 for 100ml and around £45 for 200ml. Get yours now!

Making Huge Waves: L'Eau D'Issey

2009-02-13T18:34:00.008Z

Issey Miyake's Titan of a fragrance has been around for quite some time. It's quite astonishing to imagine that for 15 years or nearly, we have had L'Eau D'Issey around for so long.
I remember when I first got into fragrance, I'd walk into Boots and spray away happily. I was discovering new scents and I always frowned or coughed when I smelt true classics. But alas, my nose was young and undeveloped and it needed time. Givenchy's Gentlemen, Aramis and Chanel's Antaeus all smelt like urine. Don't even get me started on Kouros! Issey was different though, but all in the same negative direction. Issey was to me what salt was to a snail. I tried to understand the hype behind it but I would recoil and cough and splatter. As you can imagine, this adverse overreaction was always noticed by everyone else and they probably thought I didn't have it all up there. And right they were, because smelling it now, I can only pin point my hatred for this fragrance to early symptoms of insanity. I had to grow (and retain my sanity) and thankfully Issey was patient and waited.
8 months later I have a bottle of Issey. So you are probably wondering what triggered this sudden change of heart. Well, I could put it down to vigilant testing which made me get used to the scent and tolerate the harshness, however that would be grossly inaccurate. I could put it down to catching the mainstream bug but that wouldn't exactly be true either. What happened between me and this fragrance is something that doesn't happen often in the real world but is a common occurrence in the somewhat ethereal world of scent. What happened was a sudden moment of clarity.
You'll notice when reading my reviews or experiences per se, that I value longevity a LOT. Sadly enough, it is probably the biggest factor and decider when I purchase a fragrance. On that fateful day while I was on a break from work, I sprayed Issey on my arm and instead of testing more fragrances, I got interrupted by the typical old friend who likes to talk a lot. He talked, and talked until I ran out of time. I sped back to work cursing under my breath as my experience had been ruined. Or at least, this is what I deemed to be true at the time.
Stretching from boredom, I waved my hand across my face and caught a whiff of something contagious. What could this wonderful fragrance be? It couldn't be Issey, surely not, I hated the stuff! But it was! This was about 6 hours after my morning break. Another sniff and I was addicted. I began to understand Issey in a way I had never understood a scent before. It was captivating, invigorating and energising. Pure and fresh and had this marine saltiness. It was like the ocean.
Imagine having lemonade by the beach on a warm summer day. That sensation as the ice cold liquid splashes the back of your throat and gives you a refreshing quench of your arid thirst. YES folks, it's THAT good. I can wear this everyday and I wouldn't mind that one bit. Okay maybe I'm exaggerating a bit but it's heavenly stuff. I can't wait for summer because I know Issey will shine, blossom and reveal its true nature.
It's classified as an aquatic and I feel it's very much true of its character but only when it dries down. The first burst is that of a bitter-sour citrus. I've smelt it on others and it has a sharp synthetic bitterness to it. Thankfully my body chemistry brings out more of the sour citrus. It's strong stuff and it's one of those scents that can create a scent cloud with a 10 metre radius around you. I like big sillage and this delivers it in truckloads. So without further ado, let's see how it measures up in our frag-o-meter

Fragrance: 9.5/10
Longevity: 10-16 Hours
Projection: 8.5/10
Popularity: 9.5/10

Issey scores 9/10 on the frag-o-meter. You NEED this in your wardrobe. It's strong enough to work in the winter and it's fresh enough for the summer; wearable all year round. Easy on the trigger but don't be stingy. Others will appreciate this wonderful fragrance! It retails for around £30 for a 75ml bottle. If you look carefully you will get it cheaper. If you want a big bottle, try getting a used one. It's strength can be polarizing so some might not stand it enough to spray more than twice and eventually they sell it on virtually unused. You can get a good bargain.
Issey is a classic and it's easily recognisable. But who cares? Just wear it and smell damn good!

Givenchy Pi: Wonderfully Sweet, Painfully Discreet!

2008-11-24T10:38:00.006Z

Pi has been eluding me for quite some time. It was always on my wish list but then I'd hear about something a lot more exciting and buy that instead. So it's been a long time coming! I first discovered Pi when a kind basenoter sent me a sample of the stuff. I anxiously sprayed it on and I instantly sneezed. The sharp citrusy top notes exploded into my nostrils triggering the reflex. I didn't really know what to think and I half forgot it was there. And as is usual with these sort of fragrances, it warmed to my skin and began to waft beautifully. It was like a ghostly veil that covered me but did not touch my skin, an aura perhaps. A warm, soft and sweet vanillic sweetness. Apparently it's not vanilla but benzion. Whatever that is, it smells pretty darn awesome. One thing you will not deny is its weight. It's heavy alright, which is strange for something so linear. On my skin Pi is a very civil fellow. It encompasses me but does not invade the surroundings. It keeps itself to the wearer. Pi feels similar to Boucheron's Jaipur. I've only tested Jaipur in Eau De Parfum concentration and I loved it. However, my dear mother took it from me to use for herself. I have since ordered another tester which is arriving soon.
I wore Pi when I went to meet my girlfriend. It was harshly cold and windy. I had applied it quite liberally, using a full 6 sprays. As I walked in the cold, two ladies kept whispering to themselves about how good I smelt. Their comments were loud enough for me to hear but quiet enough for me to ignore. As expected, my girlfriend did not say anything. Pi shines in cold weather where it's weight is in the right place. I feel it would amp up and destroy all living things in the heat. I hereby classify it as an evening/winter scent.
Longevity is just about right. It lasts a reasonable amount of time and it doesn't 'feel' like a weak short-lasting fragrance. I would say it'll last between 4-6 hours. It'll stay on the skin for a lot longer but you would have to dig your nose in to detect it.
Overall what we have here is a thing of considerable beauty. The bottle design is simply wonderful. This will be a permanent staple in my wardrobe. Let's see how well it does in our frag-o-meter!

Fragrance: 9/10
Longevity: 4-6 Hours
Projection: 6.5/10
Popularity: 9/10

Overall, Pi scores an impressive 8 on the frag-o-meter. This justifies owning a bottle. Yes it's very popular, yes it's very common and yes its very sweet. However, I happen to live in a little town called Woking in England where the odds of smelling fragrance in the air as slimmer than cat hair, so what do I care? And if you love it, you shouldn't either! Wear it with pride and keep an atomiser with you at all times. If someone complains about what you are wearing, get your atomiser and spray somemore! Pictures are coming soon, I'm having a camera crisis.

Underrated Summer Magic: CerrutiSi

2008-10-07T15:30:00.010+01:00

A few days ago, my wonderful girlfriend surprised me with a few fragrance samples as I drove her to work. Some were of aftershave balms and some were of men's fragrances. Initially I did not care for them. None of the samples were of fragrances I was dying to try or wishing to buy. I neutrally sniffed away and shrugged them off with indifference. I was very grateful to her though, for she had given me a few names to eliminate/ignore in case someone falsely raved about their greatness in the near future. Little did I know that later that day, I would be even more grateful for she had helped me discover a gem.
The samples themselves were of Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs and of course Cerruti. The Marc Jacobs was a floral; 'Blush' which made me feel a bit queasy ( I have an aversion for most feminine florals. They don't smell nice to me, not even on a woman). She thought I would enjoy it because it smelt 'oily'. Where she got that from, I still wonder! She also thought that the CerrutiSi was 'strong'. I had almost forgotten that her sense of smell was many times keener than mine. Apparently the female nose can smell scents which are 1000 times weaker than the male nose. Either way, the CerrutiSi smelt generic, watery and boring. I just yawned and told her it was alright, but nothing to write home about. The CK's were aftershave balms, which made me look forward to trimming my immature beard and the CerrutiSi was a 7.5 ml sample which would last long enough for a few wearings.
By the time I had gotten home, I had already forgotten about the samples. As I went on the PC to read about 'millionaire material', I started to notice the Cerruti. It was one of those light scents with incredible projection. The sort of scent that explodes and fills a room with a light aroma. It had been about an hour since I had sprayed it and I expected it to have gone by then. You see, CerrutiSi is a watery scent and if anyone has experience with these scents, the general notion is that they do not last at all. You expect them to disappear within the hour. However, after about the third hour, it had calmed down and it was a lot lighter, though not light enough for I could STILL notice it without having to pull my nose down to my skin. It had that lightness to it which said, "I'll disappear anytime now and gratify your prejudgements about me". However, it refused to go. It was about the fifth hour when I stopped caring and concentrated on my reading. I then lost track of it.
I decided to do a night test. This is one of the most vigorous tests for any fragrance. I spray the fragrance before I go to bed and then see if it survives a night of tossing and turning coupled with it being constantly rubbed off by my sheets. Any fragrance that survives this test will display great longevity and incredible hold. I did not expect CerrutiSi to survive this because of it being a light summery fragrance which is not really supposed to last that long. However, once again, I was surprised! I woke up and with a twirl of the head, it once again arose and I could smell it. It was very faint, but the main point is that it survived about 7 hours in extreme conditions.
CerrutiSi excites me because it came at the right time. While at work, a young man submitted his handset for a repair. As I catered to his issue, an incredibly fresh and fruity light scent started to waft around and immediately filled up the shop. It was not overpowering at all. It was just right. I immediately recognised it as Acqua Di Gio by Giorgio Armani. It was then that I noticed a huge dent in my wardrobe. I had no summer fragrances at all. No aquatics, no fruity-fresh woods, nothing. I was not going to buy Acqua Di Gio because of its popularity and I was contemplating on getting Cool Water, but for the same reason, I opted not to. And along came CerrutiSi. Yesterday I ordered a bottle. £9.99 for a tester from direct cosmetics. It is yet to arrive of course but as you can see, I have a good eye for bargains and I will not spend a great deal on a single scent.
CerrutiSi is easily the most confusing scent I own. It has great projection and yet it is a light scent. It works wonderfully with my skin chemistry so samples are recommended as it may not favour ours. It is also the only scent which I can sniff immediately after spraying and it will not pierce my nostrils. This I feel is a very reserved scent which may go unnoticed. However, I also feel that it has the potential to be a hit. It's clean, light, fruity, slightly sweet and safe. However, fragrances garner attention because of WHO wears them. You cannot expect to garner attention if you aren't well put together, regardless of what you are wearing (maybe the wrong kind of attention if you bathe in something astronomically powerful). Let us take this time to rate it and see how well it does.

Fragrance: 8.5/10
Longevity: 7-10 Hours
Projection: 7.5/10
Popularity: 8/10

Overall CerrutiSi scores an impressive 8/10. It's quite a beautiful thing in a stylish bottle. The juice is refreshing and intoxicating. If you are in a hot climate, this may set you apart from the Acqua Di Gio/Cool water clan. Mind you I have no problem with those fragrances as I absolutely love them. They are just a bit TOO common to buy at this moment in time.
If you are in a cool climate, the warmth of its coolness may just be what you need. This is olfactory pleasure which should be experienced by everyone. It deserves a lot more accolade. Maybe it should stay incognito so that some of us may enjoy it and elude many with our little secret!

Fragrance of The Day: Sergio Tacchini

2008-10-07T14:19:00.009+01:00

Today I received a package. In it was a fragrance I got for pennies on Ebay. At £11 (including p+p) for 100ml EDT plus 150ml Deodorant, this was unusually cheap. The fragrance was Sergio Tacchini by Sergio Tacchini. It's one of the lesser known fragrances and will guarantee individuality.
This is a fresh woody-citrus with class. Combined with the deodorant, you get a refreshing subtle smell which goes for hours upon hours. It's light and subtle and will keep you smelling fresh. This will probably elicit many positive comments because of its minty cleanliness. It can be found for cheap on the web and is a worthy edition to a well rounded wardrobe. Enjoy!

The Elusive Musk: Kiehl's Original Musk Blend

2008-10-02T12:02:00.013+01:00

It was on Tuesday when I received the package. Inside were two bottles of hard to find scents which I had ordered from the other side of the pond. One of them was Kiehl's Original Musk Blend EDT. Classed as unisex, it lies on the masculine side of the spectrum, though I find that when the top notes evaporate, it can definitely turn feminine.
The official product description is as follows; 'This modern version of our classic signature scent is based on the unique blend that is Kiehl's Musk. Our special Musk "recipe" begins with an initial creamy, fresh citrus burst of Bergamot Nectar and Orange Blossom...followed by a soft floral bouquet of Rose, Lily, Ylang-Ylang and Neroli. Finally, Original Musk Eau de Toilette dries down to a warm, sensual Oriental finish of Tonka Nut, White Patchouli and, of course, Musk...the soul of this distinctively modern scent.'
Kiehl's being a musk, is definitely highly dependent on skin chemistry. I have been busy analysing the scent, hence the lack of reviews over the past few days. As soon as I sprayed it, I became addicted and I could not wear anything else. I then decided to take time off the reviews getting to know this particular scent.
In the couple of days that I have been testing it. I have discovered that it is highly temperamental. I also found that it has minimal projection and is more of an intimate skin scent. My first two wearings brought me much disappointment. The scent would disappear within the first few minutes and I was left wanting. I figured this was my skin chemistry. I persevered and gave it another chance and I must say today has been a phenomenon. It is still very much noticeable and it has been about 5 hours. I have not worn it enough to garner compliments, however I do feel that this can definitely attract attention from both sexes.
Upon the initial spray I get a wonderfully masculine vibe similar to that found in Yves Saint Laurent's Kouros. In fact it keeps this dirty musky tone for the first hour. It then begins to evolve and becomes a bit sweeter and more floral. In all honesty this is something I had to really concentrate on to detect. Most of what I could smell was a dirty slightly fecal musk though it's not at all offensive. In fact it's quite the opposite. The dirtiness is incredibly alluring and sexy. Something you will keep sniffing and then when you think about what it really smells like; you wonder why.
Kiehl's Musk has been known to elicit extreme reactions from the opposite sex. It doesn't even smell that 'nice' from a logical point of view. I liken people's attachment to its smell to the smell of petrol or rubber. While these do not smell particularly 'nice'. They can be incredibly addictive.
Kiehl's Musk is an incredibly strong scent which is rather elusive. Spray it in your room and when you come back 10 hours later, you'll there. Spray it on your skin and you will have to dig your nose into your skin to detect it after a while. You'll get whiffs of it and wonder where on earth they are coming from. This is how a scent should carry on the wearer.
I also find that if layered with your favourite scent, it adds a little something and suddenly everyone's attitude towards you changes. Maybe it is the confidence that Kiehl's gives you which they pick up on or maybe they are just spellbound. Whatever it is they put in that vintage looking bottle works a charm and for that I truly appreciate it. A beautiful fragrance. I shall take this opportunity to introduce my new rating system and using it I will rank fragrances too. Fragrance will rate how good the scent actually smells. Longevity will look at how long it lasts on my skin. Projection will look at how far it the scent leaps from my skin and popularity will look at how people react to what I'm wearing. I plan to add more features like 'Fragrance of the Week' and so on. Let's see how Kiehl's fares up against my harsh critique and selective nose.

Fragrance: 8/10
Longevity: 2 - 7 hours (very temperamental)
Projection: 4/10
Popularity: 6/10

Overall Kiehl's scores a respectable 6/10. This is a good score especially for a controversial musk scent. Is it worth having? Absolutely. You will find that if you mix it with a scent you dislike, you create something truly phenomenal. This is what master's of seduction use surreptitiously and hope you never discover. Dirty and sleazy on the inside yet classy and restrained on the surface. If you look up to your leaders, Kiehl's is a deadringer for their personas. I need not say more.

Kiehl's Original Musk can be found online via the Mankind store here Mankind

Back To The 80's: Yves Saint Laurent Pour Homme Haute Concentration EDT

2008-09-29T09:58:00.013+01:00

Hi everyone. I will waste no time in posting my first review. Today I am reviewing one of my favorite citrus scents of all time; Yves Saint Laurent Pour Homme Haute Concentration EDT. I will first go through my experience with the scent and then review it after. If you wish to read the review only, feel free to exercise your index finger and scroll down, the review is just below!
I bought this scent by accident a few months ago. I was still a rookie in the world of fragrance (I probably still am, but I like to think otherwise) and my purchases were rather whimsical. Around this time I discovered 'basenotes' and therefore made a few searches on some powerful sweet mens fragrances.
'Yves Saint Laurent's Opium Pour Homme' came out as a favourite. I therefore decided to purchase 'Opium PH' but I did not take the courtesy to look at the bottle and study it correctly. I therefore went on 'ebay' in search of a good bargain. I then saw a few listings for Opium but they were a bit more than I was willing to spend. I then found what I thought to be a hidden gem. The listing displayed 'YSL Pour Homme Super Concentrate'. I foolishly thought that this was an even stronger version of Opium and since the boxes were similar, I bought it instantly. Little did I know that what I had actually bought was YSL's flagship scent which was NOT Opium.
A few hours later while reading my life away on fragrance websites, I realised my mistake. There was a sick feeling in my stomach because I'd spent a large chunk of my allowance on the wrong bottle! The reviews didn't help either. Some said it was all lemons and it smelt like toilet cleaner or dishwasher while some said it was downright terrible! I then anxiously waited for the bottle with that preset negativity about my purchase. I opened the bottle and tentatively spritzed the juice onto my wrists. It was an assault of sweaty lemons. Thick and heavy but lemons all the same. I instantly hated it! But this was not to last, for I revisited it on a very warm summer day and I got complimented a LOT! Needless to say, I actually enjoyed it.
I will now take this opportunity to review the scent.

REVIEW

Launched in 1983, YSL's Pour Homme Haute Concentration is a more intense and stronger take on 1971's YSL's Pour Homme (Red Cap). It is an unusually long lasting woody-citrus with a thick dose of musk. The official description says 'This masculine scente contains petitgrain, lemon, carnation and is accented with rosemary, patchouli, tonka beans, herbs with notes of aromatic woods and nutmeg making YSL perfect for daily use'.
I myself do not possess a nose complex enough to differentiate between individual notes, but I will say that I can smell a lot of lemon. It's the most dominant note in the fragrance and stays there till the very end, which is highly unusual as citrus notes evaporate in the first few minutes or hours depending on the scent.
I applied 6 sprays of the fragrance for the purpose of the review. I do not recommend spraying this with a heavy hand. It is incredibly powerful and one or two sprays should do just fine. If you want the people around you to smell it from a distance, then maybe my application will suit you. However, I am not responsible for any implications this may bring upon the wearer. If you get chased by a mob of scent driven ladies, handle it yourself!
The initial assault is a nose numbing concoction of lemon. Lots of it too. I understand why it has been compared to detergent or dishwashing liquid. It does have that vibe going on. It then calms down slightly after about 10 minutes to a musky citrus. I do not detect the woods, although I have read that it has woody ingredients. Projection is still very good and I can still very much notice it.
After the first hour, the lemons lose their sourness and begin to sweeten a little. Now the woods come into play. The lemon gets sweeter and sweeter and thus revealing the musk. At this point it smells very much like sour lemon flavoured candy with a slight fresh sweat note thrown in for good measure.This is a very sweet, dirty and sexy musk and lemon combination. One that can definitely evoke 'elevated' reactions from the females.
It remains pretty linear until you get to the 6 hour mark where the musk and woods become clearer and almost equal the lemon in strength. This is my favourite part. I have to keep sniffing my inner elbow and twirlng my head to catch whiffs of it. it's civil, musky and the lemon keeps everything fresh.
After about 10 hours, you now have a woody citrus skin scent with the musk still howling in the background, but quietly so. It remains this way for more than I care to record.
In conclusion, what we have with YSL's PH HC is a slightly old fashioned citrus. It's bold, powerful and it screams for attention. Used sparingly, this will trounce most modern offerings. However, if used with a heavy hand, it may offend, but rarely so. With incredible longevity for any scent, let alone a citrus, this offers incredible value for money. In today's society, it's radically different to the more popular scents and will definitely elicit comments. It's quite rare too so you will not find too many people wearing it. I feel that this will do well with light application in the summer and will perform better in the winter. However it is up to the wearer to decide when, where and how.
I do not recommend buying it blind. Please do test it. I buy blind because I'm addicted to the process of discovering the scent, the unknown and the unseen. I hope that you are not as crazy and save some serious money by trying the scent.
If you feel you cannot handle the serious power of PH HC, why not go for the more civil PH (which I havent tried but I feel is incredibly similar). It's available in the UK at solippy for around £15. Do research internet retailers before buying from them. Solippy has some mixed reviews. If you can find it somewhere more reputable for more, then that £2 extra may just save you months of follow up! For more reviews go to basenotes.net (Link on your left) and read other peoples experiences on this beautiful scent which I have grown to love.

Introduction

2008-09-29T09:17:00.001+01:00

Greetings to the world near and beyond. I go by the name of Critic and for now that may be the most important thing you will need to know. 'Spritzes' is my blog created for those seeking guidance on fragrance. I will address important issues like wearability, longevity and value for money. I myself am an enthusiast of fragrance and own a sizable collection of fragrances (30+ bottles and growing.. eek!). I will snap delightful photographs and review scents on a daily basis. One a day to prevent bias and olfactory fatigue. Anywhoo, I will not say much more! Enjoy!